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plateau du jardin

Ski in-ski out alpine red granit climbing just doesnt get any better than in the argentiere basin right now. take a lift, ski down, skin, climb beautiful high quality red granit and ski down at sunset with good corn along a beautiful glacier all the way to lognan . And if you time it right, you will get a freshly groomed soft “pierre a ric” down to your car. And that, was just delightful. About the climb: ok, , i suck at climbing so i rely a lot on beta and grading and dont waste a day . Espacially so in the argentiere basin where, in the summer, it takes you a minimum of 2 days to do any routes there . (one for the approach and the second for the climb and the descent). 2 days of sun in the summer on your days off is a hard one to get. i have been using a guide book for the past 2 years which was pretty good : the 6a max book. In that book they grade most of that route 4 with one 6a WRONG! totally wrong, FUCK that.FUCK them. i can somewhat lead 4’s…the entire route is sustain 5c dulfer (layback) with one biiig motha fucka 6a . those grades are the one in camptocamp.org. And I even think that some of the 5c were RUDE almost uncivilized. This is a beautiful climb with beautiful rock but goddamn! those laybacks i was cussing and coughing but having a lot of fun…Did I mention those delicates (read: scaaary) traverses?

plateau du jardin . diedre central



I sure hope that i wont be (or anyone) will be skiing the couturier when that thing will fall down.

Follow are pictures of climbing…i didnt lead anything so its all looking up which isnt the best…












watching birds and other planes.

we went rock climbing, after the second pitch, at the crux , my partner had an old injury pain he couldnt deal with any longer. And me , well, as far as alpine rock climbing leading goes, if you tell me the words: CRUX and SLAB and ROOF…i am not going anywhere . So we just sat there and watched planes , birds and climbers.



can you see the climbers







Rando day

Take a young rando racer, 1 radical ski alpinist and me. shake. And you get 1600 M vertical ascent, 3000M descent. 3 entracked couloirs with cold snow exposed and fairly steep…3 new lines for me. all between 9 am and 2.30 PM. fun day! we should have carried on to Buet but… why?  and  the elevation apres ski burger and beer were singing my name  pretty loudly…























water is the new oil

Now that we (occident mostly) have entirely polluted ALL of the fresh water in China by exporting our dirty industry (like euhm those great colors on patagucci clothing for exemple) China is taking control of lake Tanganyika: the second largest fresh water lake by volume in the world …good job! Future generations are going to have soo much fun!

tedex lake Tanganyika

un-to-propose-planetary-regulations-water-food

so wrong…soon we will need a permit to boil snow in the mountains…

Jon Griffith

Jon is a bad ass alpinist who takes his 5D on all his trips. And let me tell you, that is not easy….

here some picts of his last trip

Mont Blanc south face

Jordan Manley

Jordan Manley is an amazing photographer and videographer. I love those 2 movies of him…

arete sud aiguille du Genepi

Every year at around spring which came a little too early this year , chamonix has my favorite kind of rock climbing: ski- in ski -out alpine rock climbing . you take a lift , ski 1000 meters -skin one hour-and you are at the base of beautiful south facing perfect alpine red granit towers. from 200M to 6ooM, from classic 5c to cutting edge 7c , splitters-face-you name it…you climb your route in the most beautiful alpine scenery , all day in the sun, rap , get back on your skis and glide down 2000 meters of beautiul rollers down the glacier to your car. that way you are avoiding the long heinous approach donkeying your gear around and the long descent. Only the best. just pleasure..the epitome of “joie de vivre”. Today we chose to go in the argentiere basin to climb the genepi south ridge. A perfect choice to start the season.

refuge d argentiere


we climbed the right tower south ridge


thor



this is my foot


view


those climbs looked pretty hard


chillin out


climbing


climbing


climbing


rapping