between the rain and the job; Some climbing, biking…
I’am glad ski season is over. The relentless mind dithering- i want to go i dont want to go dont go go go no yes no -was driving me crazy. The slow cotemplative pace of climbing, the safety of the rope just feels better for now. i suck at climbing but i like it.
eperon des cosmique. voie rebuffat
I cranked up the saturation to see their bright jacket!
I had wonderful dreams for my heat wave-clear sky-no wind- days off. Some glorious summits. 2 of my favorites rope guns are having babies . The other one is in new york (why?) and my favorite climbing partner is in the midst of his mid thirties hormonal outburst. I have to be the rope gun then.that mean not so glorious summit nevertheless awesomeness… My first idea was the high up gorgeous ridge traverse on the aiguille doree. supposedly the best red granit in the mont blanc massif. however my new favorite rope bitch: Anna (that is her name) had to be at work on friday 5 pm at MBC. I chose the neighboring aiguille de purtscheller. Shorter and beautiful , high and far from the crowd. On the book it is pretty easy. the level is nice and sweet. I underestimated the chimney which was tough, long, no pros and required a few maneuvers to get the bags thru it and our bodies. other than that , RAS: beautiful climbing on amazing rock. The walk to and from is nothing less than amazing: Walking thru alpine meadows onto vast moraines, and then walk on those big glaciers (dark holes on the way) . The bivies around the albert 1 er hut are 5 stars….Everything went smoothly aside from a huge piece of rock smashing and ricochet over Anna’s body as she was raping . Luckily her backpack protected her. (panic attack for a few seconds thu) . she scored a few scratches and she made it on time at work. (Anna chose to not bring crampons err…!^$%@…better with). i am impressed at how she took it easy on the whole trip , she is soon to become a great climber…An alpinist.
href=”https://cedricbernardini.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/purtscheller-15.jpg”> Anna [/caption]
to any astroman-niac climbers , the aiguilles rouges are just a pile of shiat. It is. However , this is also the best leisurely not committing- sunny side -with a view -sport climbing- alpine-cragg- in the world- that i know of. Also, a lot of the routes out there were open by Piola himself and the rock is at times surprisingly good. This round however, for my 2 days off, i had 2 goals: stay away from the crowd, get confident in placing gear without being scared of falling head first on a sharp flake . i chose to go on the tour des crochue and the aiguille de perseverance. 2 easy routes on nice looking pillars, almost un-equipped (a few 1920 charlet pitons here and there) . The route finding was fun and placing gear in grassy crack pretty entertaining. (does it work really, i dont know , i didnt fall) , but best of all, aside from a couple of chamois and marmottes , we didnt see anyone.
We wanted to climb the west face of the aiguille d’entreve but upon our arrival we realized it was more due North and being pretty cold and cloudy that day we opted for the leisurely traverse. Me and Pete had never being on it before and it was a nice surprise. It is a very esthetic ridge walk, very exposed. The surrounding being the Italian side of the mont blanc massif , it is obviously wild and beautiful …I highly recommend that traverse over the cosmique ridge on busy summer days…