CYRENAICS photos

rock climbing

lurking

I hung out at the top of the aiguille du midi . That is all.

Climbers on the cosmic ridge

cosmique ridge

cosmique ridge

people walking on the white desert toward the refuge des grand mulets and mont blanc summit

voie normal mont blanc

voie normal mont blanc

By far my favorite ski run.the south west face of les droites. Not the hardest, steepest or most bad ass by today’s standard but my favorite. One of my ambition was to climb the north face and ski that face. Never found the partner to do it with…

west face les droite

west face les droite

the tour ronde north face with all the satellites : adolphe rey, or de siam, capucin. great memories, great summits, great climbs. and ski.

north face tour ronde, pointe adolphe rey, grand capucin

north face tour ronde, pointe adolphe rey, grand capucin

dent du géant

dent du géant

dent du géant

skiers in the rond

skiers in the rond

skiers

skiers

cervin, grand combin, triolet

cervin, grand combin, triolet

choucas

choucas

radness

radness

mont blanc du tacul

mont blanc du tacul

shaffer

shaffer

And of course, a wing suit pilot jumped…

wing suit. aiguille du midi

wing suit. aiguille du midi


summer

between the rain and the job; Some climbing, biking…

blaitiere, ciseaux, fou, moon

blaitiere, ciseaux, fou, moon

Benoit Sancesario-Lasson- mont blanc

Benoit Sancesario-Lasson- mont blanc

Benoit Sancesario-Lasson- mont blanc

Benoit Sancesario-Lasson- mont blanc

Eva Eskilsson on peigne


Happy boulders, California.

Owen valley, bishop, california

Owen valley, bishop, california

happy boulder

happy boulder


I only climb with hot chicks

I’am glad ski season is over. The relentless mind dithering- i want to go i dont want to go dont go go go no yes no -was driving me crazy. The slow cotemplative pace of climbing, the safety of the rope just feels better for now. i suck at climbing but i like it.

eperon des cosmique. voie rebuffat

Eva Eskilsson, anna caesar

Eva Eskilsson, anna caesar

hand crack

hand crack

Eva Eskilsson

Eva Eskilsson

Eva Eskilsson

Eva Eskilsson

Eva Eskilsson

 anna caesar

anna caesar

Eva Eskilsson

Eva Eskilsson

 anna caesar

anna caesar

Eva Eskilsson

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a little ballad on the rocheford


here they are

ueli steck -jon griffith


ueli steck-jon griffith


Can You See The Climbers: Ueli Steck and Jon Griffith

Ueli Steck and Jon Griffith on a winter ascent of the dru last winter

I cranked up the saturation to see their bright jacket!


AIGUILLE DE PURTSCHELLER

I had wonderful dreams for my heat wave-clear sky-no wind- days off. Some glorious summits. 2 of my favorites rope guns are having babies . The other one is in new york (why?) and my favorite climbing partner is in the midst of his mid thirties hormonal outburst. I have to be the rope gun then.that mean not so glorious summit nevertheless awesomeness… My first idea was the high up gorgeous ridge traverse on the aiguille doree. supposedly the best red granit in the mont blanc massif. however my new favorite rope bitch: Anna (that is her name) had to be at work on friday 5 pm at MBC. I chose the neighboring aiguille de purtscheller. Shorter and beautiful , high and far from the crowd. On the book it is pretty easy. the level is nice and sweet. I underestimated the chimney which was tough, long, no pros and required a few maneuvers to get the bags thru it and our bodies. other than that , RAS: beautiful climbing on amazing rock. The walk to and from is nothing less than amazing: Walking thru alpine meadows onto vast moraines, and then walk on those big glaciers (dark holes on the way) . The bivies around the albert 1 er hut are 5 stars….Everything went smoothly aside from a huge piece of rock smashing and ricochet over Anna’s body as she was raping . Luckily her backpack protected her. (panic attack for a few seconds thu) . she scored a few scratches and she made it on time at work. (Anna chose to not bring crampons err…!^$%@…better with). i am impressed at how she took it easy on the whole trip , she is soon to become a great climber…An alpinist.



prossiutto raviolis with greenlandic whale.


sunset


the chardonnet with a shooting star (plane)


the valley


morning light


anna


3 skier’s dream . Ourea obviously created those 3 mountains for skiers


Anna being reborn
can you see the dream in the back ground? so perfect

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Anna scrambling down to the rap



aiguilles rouges

to any astroman-niac climbers , the aiguilles rouges are just a pile of shiat. It is. However , this is also the best leisurely not committing- sunny side -with a view -sport climbing- alpine-cragg- in the world- that i know of. Also, a lot of the routes out there were open by Piola himself and the rock is at times surprisingly good. This round however, for my 2 days off, i had 2 goals: stay away from the crowd, get confident in placing gear without being scared of falling head first on a sharp flake . i chose to go on the tour des crochue and the aiguille de perseverance. 2 easy routes on nice looking pillars, almost un-equipped (a few 1920 charlet pitons here and there) . The route finding was fun and placing gear in grassy crack pretty entertaining. (does it work really, i dont know , i didnt fall) , but best of all, aside from a couple of chamois and marmottes , we didnt see anyone.

tour des crochues

i started with Anna on the tour des crouchues, voie escande de Galbert (1970). (right side straight up)


anna on tour des crochues



anna tour des crochues

and then with luca on perseverance , arete sud integral



luca pandolfi on perseverance


luca on perseverance


luca



a beer at lac blanc refuge





aiguille d’entreve

We wanted to climb the west face of the aiguille d’entreve but upon our arrival we realized it was more due North and being pretty cold and cloudy that day we opted for the leisurely traverse. Me and Pete had never being on it before and it was a nice surprise. It is a very esthetic ridge walk, very exposed. The surrounding being the Italian side of the mont blanc massif , it is obviously wild and beautiful …I highly recommend that traverse over the cosmique ridge on busy summer days…





thor husted , pete gaston