CYRENAICS photos

rock climbing

Summer-gallery

I spent 1 month volunteering in Namibia-naankuse, south-Africa-Kevin Richardson and Zambia. I found volunteering is the best way to go for countries in southern Africa. The money goes straight into conservation effort, working and spending time with local is very enriching, i get a better understanding of the conservation work and limitations , and I get a more intimate experience with wild species..

A few shots of california via a road trip from Vermont…and some summer cham shots…


christopher moroch

christopher moroch


lurking

I hung out at the top of the aiguille du midi . That is all.

Climbers on the cosmic ridge

cosmique ridge

cosmique ridge

people walking on the white desert toward the refuge des grand mulets and mont blanc summit

voie normal mont blanc

voie normal mont blanc

By far my favorite ski run.the south west face of les droites. Not the hardest, steepest or most bad ass by today’s standard but my favorite. One of my ambition was to climb the north face and ski that face. Never found the partner to do it with…

west face les droite

west face les droite

the tour ronde north face with all the satellites : adolphe rey, or de siam, capucin. great memories, great summits, great climbs. and ski.

north face tour ronde, pointe adolphe rey, grand capucin

north face tour ronde, pointe adolphe rey, grand capucin

dent du géant

dent du géant

dent du géant

skiers in the rond

skiers in the rond

skiers

skiers

cervin, grand combin, triolet

cervin, grand combin, triolet

choucas

choucas

radness

radness

mont blanc du tacul

mont blanc du tacul

shaffer

shaffer

And of course, a wing suit pilot jumped…

wing suit. aiguille du midi

wing suit. aiguille du midi


summer

between the rain and the job; Some climbing, biking…

blaitiere, ciseaux, fou, moon

blaitiere, ciseaux, fou, moon

Benoit Sancesario-Lasson- mont blanc

Benoit Sancesario-Lasson- mont blanc

Benoit Sancesario-Lasson- mont blanc

Benoit Sancesario-Lasson- mont blanc

Eva Eskilsson on peigne


Happy boulders, California.

Owen valley, bishop, california

Owen valley, bishop, california

happy boulder

happy boulder


I only climb with hot chicks

I’am glad ski season is over. The relentless mind dithering- i want to go i dont want to go dont go go go no yes no -was driving me crazy. The slow cotemplative pace of climbing, the safety of the rope just feels better for now. i suck at climbing but i like it.

eperon des cosmique. voie rebuffat

Eva Eskilsson, anna caesar

Eva Eskilsson, anna caesar

hand crack

hand crack

Eva Eskilsson

Eva Eskilsson

Eva Eskilsson

Eva Eskilsson

Eva Eskilsson

 anna caesar

anna caesar

Eva Eskilsson

Eva Eskilsson

 anna caesar

anna caesar

Eva Eskilsson

untitled-94


a little ballad on the rocheford


here they are

ueli steck -jon griffith


ueli steck-jon griffith


Can You See The Climbers: Ueli Steck and Jon Griffith

Ueli Steck and Jon Griffith on a winter ascent of the dru last winter

I cranked up the saturation to see their bright jacket!


AIGUILLE DE PURTSCHELLER

I had wonderful dreams for my heat wave-clear sky-no wind- days off. Some glorious summits. 2 of my favorites rope guns are having babies . The other one is in new york (why?) and my favorite climbing partner is in the midst of his mid thirties hormonal outburst. I have to be the rope gun then.that mean not so glorious summit nevertheless awesomeness… My first idea was the high up gorgeous ridge traverse on the aiguille doree. supposedly the best red granit in the mont blanc massif. however my new favorite rope bitch: Anna (that is her name) had to be at work on friday 5 pm at MBC. I chose the neighboring aiguille de purtscheller. Shorter and beautiful , high and far from the crowd. On the book it is pretty easy. the level is nice and sweet. I underestimated the chimney which was tough, long, no pros and required a few maneuvers to get the bags thru it and our bodies. other than that , RAS: beautiful climbing on amazing rock. The walk to and from is nothing less than amazing: Walking thru alpine meadows onto vast moraines, and then walk on those big glaciers (dark holes on the way) . The bivies around the albert 1 er hut are 5 stars….Everything went smoothly aside from a huge piece of rock smashing and ricochet over Anna’s body as she was raping . Luckily her backpack protected her. (panic attack for a few seconds thu) . she scored a few scratches and she made it on time at work. (Anna chose to not bring crampons err…!^$%@…better with). i am impressed at how she took it easy on the whole trip , she is soon to become a great climber…An alpinist.



prossiutto raviolis with greenlandic whale.


sunset


the chardonnet with a shooting star (plane)


the valley


morning light


anna


3 skier’s dream . Ourea obviously created those 3 mountains for skiers


Anna being reborn
can you see the dream in the back ground? so perfect

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Anna scrambling down to the rap



aiguilles rouges

to any astroman-niac climbers , the aiguilles rouges are just a pile of shiat. It is. However , this is also the best leisurely not committing- sunny side -with a view -sport climbing- alpine-cragg- in the world- that i know of. Also, a lot of the routes out there were open by Piola himself and the rock is at times surprisingly good. This round however, for my 2 days off, i had 2 goals: stay away from the crowd, get confident in placing gear without being scared of falling head first on a sharp flake . i chose to go on the tour des crochue and the aiguille de perseverance. 2 easy routes on nice looking pillars, almost un-equipped (a few 1920 charlet pitons here and there) . The route finding was fun and placing gear in grassy crack pretty entertaining. (does it work really, i dont know , i didnt fall) , but best of all, aside from a couple of chamois and marmottes , we didnt see anyone.

tour des crochues

i started with Anna on the tour des crouchues, voie escande de Galbert (1970). (right side straight up)


anna on tour des crochues



anna tour des crochues

and then with luca on perseverance , arete sud integral



luca pandolfi on perseverance


luca on perseverance


luca



a beer at lac blanc refuge





aiguille d’entreve

We wanted to climb the west face of the aiguille d’entreve but upon our arrival we realized it was more due North and being pretty cold and cloudy that day we opted for the leisurely traverse. Me and Pete had never being on it before and it was a nice surprise. It is a very esthetic ridge walk, very exposed. The surrounding being the Italian side of the mont blanc massif , it is obviously wild and beautiful …I highly recommend that traverse over the cosmique ridge on busy summer days…





thor husted , pete gaston


le ticket le rond le carre et la lune. aiguille du peigne.

If the words : slabs, traverse, roof are frightening to you. beyond reason: you should go there. It will be fun. 250 meter of slabs. open by Piola. and if it is too easy add some wet-ness into the equation . The rock is so good that if you can give it up, if you can balance your all life on that one little coffee spoon dish or crystal or what ever they call a hold then you will realize it is holding you and start to commit to the next move. and again and again and again …Of course i did not lead anything and i was cussing and puffing. i had fun. My next step is to find a tarantula and lick her ass.

Ben briggs getting ready


ben briggs stepping over the first roof.


what is supposed to be a hold


vision of hell


Thor husted sending it.


Thor husted


thor husted


thor husted.


god



wandering and lurking

That is all my job and the weather are allowing me to do these days. the patterns are as follow: days off= unsettled weather. work days=sunny and warm. I watched 3 seasons of “breaking bad” which I highly recommend. I drunk a few bottles of red wine. got fat , unfit and lazy. I went on nice short walks-climbs and witnessed radical climbing at the world cup, the chamois habitat, clouds and mountains, dog fight. I also took a co-worker on the cosmic ridge….

A nice morning walk before work. Taking Miguel on his first trip outside the cave.







world cup and dog fight




chamois rock and clouds







conte de la folie ordinaire

It is very luxurious to wake up-ride a train up 1000 meters and then walk on a sea of ice surrounded by huge mountains to the base of perfect granit crack and slab climbing. watch the moine crumble (hopefully noone was on the trail or climbing) and then walk back on the sea of ice, ride the train back to town and have a glass of wine at home.
And since some weirdo gave that name to the route we climbed i thought i would throw some related quotes from the Man himself : Bukowski.

“show me a man who lives alone and has a perpetually dirty kitchen, and 5 times out of 9 I’ll show you an exceptional man.” “show me a man who lives alone and has a perpetually clean kitchen, and 8 times out of 9 I’ll show you a man with detestable spiritual qualities.”
― Charles Bukowski, Tales of Ordinary Madness

“the free soul is rare, but you know it when you see it – basically because you feel good, very good, when you are near or with them.”
― Charles Bukowski, Tales of Ordinary Madness

“Forgive me, I guess I am off in the head, but I mean, except for a quickie piece of ass it wouldn’t matter to me if all the people in the world died. Yes, I know it’s not nice. But I’d be as contended as a snail; it was, after all, the people who had made me unhappy.”
― Charles Bukowski, Tales of Ordinary Madness

mer de glace


the aiguille du moine crumbling






midsommar

its summer. i have given up all my big ski projects. the global warming induced heratic weather patterns have transformed my ski dreams into mushy icy hell ski nightmares. I am a climber now. or at least for the next 3 months. A sort of a climber that is. the weak one. scared .
Thor chose one of those 100 Rebuffat finest route. the grutter ridge on the aiguille des pelerins. a fairly easy airy ridge line going to the summit of the aiguille des pelerins. First climbed in 1935 by r. aubert and M .grutter. 1935 means sandbagged and scary. And sandbagged and scary it is. But so magnificient and aerial. With splendid views on the aiguilles de chamonix . A classic!

can you see the climbers


can you see the climbers








Adventure yoga retreat in kalymnos the end. climbing, tits grabbing and beatches.

the apartment we rented was very nice and conveniently located , 15 min from the grand grotto (kalymnos main attraction) 2 min from the beach and town. It was fully equiped and clean. The owner is Antonio Galouzis : www.agalouzis.com. Antonio and his wife are amazing people and made sure our stay was delightul. Very often , we would come back from sending 8a all day and be greeted by tasty greek delicacy made by Antonio’s wife. (the first pictures shows the apt). Also , the trip was organized by adventure yoga retreat. It went as smoothly as it could be. They have yoga surf trips in portugal as well. The people in Kalymnos are very nice and welcoming. I highly encourage anyone to go to Kalymnos or anywhere in greece and spend as many euros as you could. IT will be well worth it. And good for greece. I will shut up now…time for the tits grabbing pictures…

this was our house

the hole. some good climbing in there.


the cove


hot chicks


heather swift


heather swift



find the climber-


find the climber-


the hole


cape town (S.Africa) versus Bishop (california): Johnathan Jacobs (cape town) won by far.


cape town (S.Africa) versus Bishop (california): Johnathan Jacobs (cape town) won by far.


lunch


Johnathan Jacobs




moon


the crew departure


tits handle bar….



find the climber . 1…Kalymnos with adventure yoga retreat

Kalymnos with adventure yoga retreat

Johnathan Jacobs


Johnathan Jacobs


Johnathan Jacobs


Johnathan Jacobs




kalymnos – yoga-eat-climb-beach-climb-eat-yoga-eat-beach….sleep

Kalymnos and its people are superb and so is the climbing, the food the house and everything. with alpine yoga and climbing retreat



















Finale Ligure

I crashed a party in Finale ligura, forcing myself into Kristy shelley’s car. The skiing in cham wasnt that good and storm were looming. I had never been to finale so it was a good way to go. Finale climbing is the mecca for sport limestone climbing and it is steep and sharp and steep. Luckily my new best friend rope gun hero Bryan Schneider was here to get the rope up some heinous yet beautiful 6c-6c+…awesome!. I love climbing with a sea view. then, well…THEN, the party. the down side of having a big camera is you dont take it all the time. I missed the finale debauchery ice skating drinking shenanigan. BUT, here tom grant ice skating.  he wins.

Here follow are A LOT of climbing views pictures….only climbing, the guy with the funny yellow shorts is tom grant. he wins.