AIGUILLE DE PURTSCHELLER
I had wonderful dreams for my heat wave-clear sky-no wind- days off. Some glorious summits. 2 of my favorites rope guns are having babies . The other one is in new york (why?) and my favorite climbing partner is in the midst of his mid thirties hormonal outburst. I have to be the rope gun then.that mean not so glorious summit nevertheless awesomeness… My first idea was the high up gorgeous ridge traverse on the aiguille doree. supposedly the best red granit in the mont blanc massif. however my new favorite rope bitch: Anna (that is her name) had to be at work on friday 5 pm at MBC. I chose the neighboring aiguille de purtscheller. Shorter and beautiful , high and far from the crowd. On the book it is pretty easy. the level is nice and sweet. I underestimated the chimney which was tough, long, no pros and required a few maneuvers to get the bags thru it and our bodies. other than that , RAS: beautiful climbing on amazing rock. The walk to and from is nothing less than amazing: Walking thru alpine meadows onto vast moraines, and then walk on those big glaciers (dark holes on the way) . The bivies around the albert 1 er hut are 5 stars….Everything went smoothly aside from a huge piece of rock smashing and ricochet over Anna’s body as she was raping . Luckily her backpack protected her. (panic attack for a few seconds thu) . she scored a few scratches and she made it on time at work. (Anna chose to not bring crampons err…!^$%@…better with). i am impressed at how she took it easy on the whole trip , she is soon to become a great climber…An alpinist.
href=”https://cedricbernardini.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/purtscheller-15.jpg”> Anna [/caption]