CYRENAICS photos

Posts tagged “aiguille du midi

victor de le rue among glacier


the bird flying over an island of ice

Michael bird shaffer


aiguille du midi morning Tv

aiguille du midi, mallory, chamonix , north face

tof henry and papy on the malory


Unlimited Festival

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Black crows ski have been hosting this festival for many years now. It used to be an intimate home made 3 days bacchanal called the black week end with sweet DJs and crowd. This is now a full blown (mostly) electronic music festival with cutting edge sound designers and huge crowd. As usual, my procrastinating punished me, i didn’t get that “black bracelet” on time allowing drinks and entry to all events for cheaper…i had to choose which and what without costing my arms and legs. Luckily, my wish was on heavy , dark industrial techno berliner Berghain resident Marcel Dettman, playing 3 times with 2 free events. It is easy to find good house music or dance music in any event but techno is far harder. Marcel dettman is a sure thing. Under the same MDR/Ostgut-Ton label, answer code request was playing as well. the cherry on the cake. (on the techno ostgut-ton label, ben Klock was here as well but i missed him)

For me the festival started at the aiguille du midi. Which happened to be my first time up there this season. Yes, kinda unreal but a mix of bad season leading to work a lot and my bad attitude had this happen …what a treat to be partying up there…

unlimited festival, black crows , chamonix, aiguille du midi

unlimited festival, black crows , chamonix, aiguille du midi

unlimited festival, black crows , chamonix, aiguille du midi

The most defining moment was at the refuge de lognan , me and Nate at a table when answer code request (Patrick Gräser) started with playing that song. The scenic, clouds, the song . This is where i fell in love. What followed was pretty amazing . Precise bass in an outstanding setting in the privacy of a mountain refuge…priceless.

answer code request, unlimited festival, black crows , chamonix, aiguille du midi

answer code request, unlimited festival, black crows , chamonix, aiguille du midi

answer code request

unlimited festival, black crows , chamonix, aiguille du midi


year 2016

the good stuff of 2016

I bought 3 music albums.

Le trio Joubran-as fâr and Majâz. Amazing music from palestine!

radiohead a moon shaped pool.

ben milstein-untitled EP : sweet intricate electro

I bought one ski movie: Sam favret : backyard: sweet film showing the chamonix backyard and sam’s crew. Amazing imagery and editing.

my other favorite ski movies were : jordan manley: china and jordan manley: Iran

Manley is still my favorite .

and also: la liste where jeremy heitz show us how to ski steep today.

2016 started at the infamous berghain

berghain

All kind of Chamonix happened.

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chamonix, france, cosmique couloir

chamonix, france, cosmique couloir

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couloir alley italey

couloir alley italey

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couloir alley italey

couloir alley italey

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Lofoten

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lofoten norway

lofoten norway

lofoten norway, sauna-bath at lofoten ski lodge

lofoten norway, sauna-bath at lofoten ski lodge

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lofoten norway

lofoten norway

Japan , hakuba

tokyo japan

tokyo japan

tokyo japan

tokyo japan

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hakuba japan

hakuba japan

hakuba japan

hakuba japan

california

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Namibia

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La grave

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la grave

la grave


finding skiing in the desert

The Alps under high pressure, we can’t breath in Chamonix. Skiing can still be fun , sometime finding pockets of ancestral cold powder, some fun days out here and there with good company…

mont blanc

mont blanc

flo tomei

flo tomei

rosanna.hughes

rosanna.hughes

aiguille du midi

aiguille du midi

aiguille du midi

aiguille du midi

somewhere in italy

somewhere in italy

giulia monego

giulia monego

giulia monego-Davide de masi

giulia monego-Davide de masi

giulia monego

giulia monego

giulia monego-davide capozzi

giulia monego-davide capozzi

At the top of a powder face , binding broke. Luckily the snowboarder Davide Capozzi comes to the rescue with a spare toe binding in his pocket and a screwdriver . pretty unusual-random. saved the day.
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davide capozzi-davide de masi

davide capozzi-davide de masi

giulia monego-davide capozzi

giulia monego-davide capozzi

giulia monego

giulia monego


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aiguille du midi-refuge vallot

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monkey business at the midi

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lurking

I hung out at the top of the aiguille du midi . That is all.

Climbers on the cosmic ridge

cosmique ridge

cosmique ridge

people walking on the white desert toward the refuge des grand mulets and mont blanc summit

voie normal mont blanc

voie normal mont blanc

By far my favorite ski run.the south west face of les droites. Not the hardest, steepest or most bad ass by today’s standard but my favorite. One of my ambition was to climb the north face and ski that face. Never found the partner to do it with…

west face les droite

west face les droite

the tour ronde north face with all the satellites : adolphe rey, or de siam, capucin. great memories, great summits, great climbs. and ski.

north face tour ronde, pointe adolphe rey, grand capucin

north face tour ronde, pointe adolphe rey, grand capucin

dent du géant

dent du géant

dent du géant

skiers in the rond

skiers in the rond

skiers

skiers

cervin, grand combin, triolet

cervin, grand combin, triolet

choucas

choucas

radness

radness

mont blanc du tacul

mont blanc du tacul

shaffer

shaffer

And of course, a wing suit pilot jumped…

wing suit. aiguille du midi

wing suit. aiguille du midi


steeps

This past 20 days i haven’t skied at all but the conditions were all time and i watched the history of steep skiing unfold …it was very entertaining. The cult of self providing 3 min bad video footages and mostly bad pictures of everyone’s steep descents all over the social medias. While it was all bad quality it was showing a nice view of the steep skiing phenomena …I was baffled by the amount of good alpinists and skiers tackling 5.4 and 5.5 runs all over the mont blanc massif. I lived in chamonix for 10 years , not an alpinist, it took me 4 years before i could get on the north faces of the midi or runs on the argentiere basin north faces. I never heard of anyone skiing the north faces of the midi or the col de la verte within my first 4 years. Today with the new gear technology, every alpinists can ski and every skier is better. It takes less than a season learning skiing for an alpinist to tackle a 5.4 run which on an alpinist point of view is just a easy descent they usually run down on crampons. I saw young skiers skiing the mallory on their first season in chamonix (with a friend alpinist or guide) . So, anytime things are good (global warming helping), people line up on every run. This past 20 days was the biggest so far with every ski runs in the argentiere basin north face skied by minimum 10 people, sometime 20 people or more , the aiguille du plan north faces , pain de sucre, frendo, all the runs on the aiguille du midi skied by many. Most with huge G.S turns at mack2. Amazing. If, people were less competitive, less self centered, the medias/industry more unifying, interested and honest, the best ski movie of all time could have been made this steep season including rock star pros as well as struggling sponsored dirt bags and all the other passionate freaks. Instead, we will hear about some privileged prefabricated super hero athletes skiing whatever something in the alps or exotic location in a fabricated story with all sort of superlatives and logos claiming first decent of a 30 meters variations … I randomly stumbled on the descent of the Nant blanc by Alex Pittin, tony Lamiche and Hélias Millerioux. The nant blanc face is the most impressive, intimidating , steep and exposed face visible from the valley. The climbing is a D+ the skiing a 5.5. It  was first skied by J.M Boivin in june 1989, repeated on snowboard by Marco Siffredi in june 1999. repeated again by Pierre Tardivel and Stephane Brosse in june 2009 and then by 2 of the T-crew  and more (?). This mid April, Pittin (ex world cup skier) with tony Lamiche (guide, 9A rock climber ,  alpinist, skier) and Hélias Millerioux (guide, top alpinist, hangs out on Nupse with colin haley and ueli steck) were the first on this face, arguably the most beautiful face visible from the valley. I enjoyed the descent with Alex pittin’s father who was a little stressed and I took some photos. It was very nice. A very clean descent from first bin grand montet on sight. I’ve never been interested in skiing that face myself. I would need an alpinist for partner on that one. But you never know, 5 years from now, that face might get good from january on, until then ,  this face will get skied a lot more in the next month or so…

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This is the argentiere basin north faces , All those approximate red lines show the ski runs, in the past 20 days , each one of those receive between 10 to 30 skiers.

argentiere basin

argentiere basin

 

 

this is the top of the aiguille verte, on the top left you can see 3 skiers going up. they skied down the couturier (i saw 9 skiers that day going that way). on the right of the calotte, you can see  helias millerious,tony lamiche,  alex pittin getting involved in the Nant blanc face.

nan blanc, helias millerious,tony lamiche, alex pittin

nant blanc, helias millerious,tony lamiche, alex pittin

nan blanc, helias millerious,tony lamiche, alex pittin

nant blanc, helias millerious,tony lamiche, alex pittin

nan blanc, helias millerious,tony lamiche, alex pittin

nant blanc, helias millerious,tony lamiche, alex pittin

nan blanc, helias millerious,tony lamiche, alex pittin

nant blanc, helias millerious,tony lamiche, alex pittin

nan blanc, helias millerious,tony lamiche, alex pittin

nant blanc, helias millerious,tony lamiche, alex pittin

nan blanc, helias millerious,tony lamiche, alex pittin

nant blanc, helias millerious,tony lamiche, alex pittin

nan blanc, helias millerious,tony lamiche, alex pittin

nant blanc, helias millerious,tony lamiche, alex pittin

 

 

this is Alex father watching the descent a little stressed.

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nan blanc, helias millerious,tony lamiche, alex pittin

nant  blanc, helias millerious,tony lamiche, alex pittin

nan blanc, helias millerious,tony lamiche, alex pittin

nant blanc, helias millerious,tony lamiche, alex pittin


a stormy rond and cosmique . a sunny valley blanche

jeremy heitz, laurent gauthier, leo slemmett, christopher baud, logan pehota

jeremy heitz, laurent gauthier, leo slemmett, christopher baud, logan pehota

leo slemmett

leo slemmett

jeremy heitz

jeremy heitz

laurent gauthier

laurent gauthier

laurent gauthier

laurent gauthier

jeremy heitz

jeremy heitz

logan pehota

logan pehota

logan pehota

logan pehota

logan pehota

logan pehota

logan pehota

logan pehota

logan pehota

logan pehota

logan pehota

logan pehota


re-entry – Chamonix

Back in Chamonix , My friend from San Fransisco was at my flat for another day so i took him down the cosmique back to cham via the junction. The cosmic had been tracked and was OK but the junction was all time …what a beautiful way to come back and a memorable last day for my friend.

Johnathan Jacobs

next day 10 of us took a heli up the petit mont blanc to ski the super classic bonatti couloir to celebrate our friend lionel hatchemi aka so-connard birthday . A classic day. so-local. next morning was hang over day.

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we went with tof henry to try to shoot something nice but it wasn’t in the way we wanted.

tof henry

tof henry

tof henry


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Minna and the view

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All the way to 2016. NYE at Berghain–wopwoop

Despite the immense lack of snow, we managed to get a descent amount of good skiing and good fun. Nate Wallace was often my motivator…he is always up for something…nate wallacenate wallace finding the way

Dusan benes on the entreve

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a wing suiter off brevent

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Black crows ski entertainment apres ski party at grand monte

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I also had a memorable christmas celebration night with amazing friends— ending at 12 noon the next day…

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and then the epic new years 3 days party marathon at Berghain club in Berlin

Back when i was introduced to freeriding , it was all a punk rock-death metal-greg stump-blizzard of ahh’s ode to hedonism sung by all sort of interesting human-characters-mutant-animals. Today, the “incorporated” idea of alpinism sort of took over (ruined it all), trading the emotionally heretic disordered poetic expression for the technical cold ultra light gear-carbon-time A to B-how many verts/day -angles/airbag and whowhat blah blah- orderly talk , mostly conservative boy scouts on a very expensive pee contest in an exotic location…boring. SO, I miss the wilderness…where is Greg Stump? take me back to the zoo !. I haven’t been to a hedonist party with a proper sound system, fascinating freaks and tribal tekno since november moontribe 2011. The idea of being in a dark room in the middle of a 4 corners Funktion-one stacks of bass and the legendary industrial dark and dirty tekno berghain is known for, makes me horny. seriously. i would trade a night with Charlize Theron-johnny depp for a night at Berghain. Berghain’s door policy is almost as famous as its A-list roster of DJs. The club’s main bouncer, Sven Marquardt <-link to brilliant sven photography, a bearish East German photographer with a face covered in barbed-wire tattoos, is a celebrity in Germany and referred to in newspaper headlines as “the lord of the night.” resisting gentrification is awesome but I am not into that 2 hours line to -maybe- not get in -thing….
My old time socal-desert party debauchery friend Francis kirigin -HERO_ who is currently working on a phd in computational biology in Berlin told me she could get me on Alessandro Cortini (Nine Inch Nails music designer playing berghain as SONOIO for NYE ) guest list. I booked my ticket in the next minute.

I knew i was gonna get good sound and good tekno in a dark room. I was not expecting the full religious experience i got. i was immersed in a concrete nave of darkness, brutal techno holds you by the throat , parties tangles over several days .

In the past two decades, the city’s tradition of sexual permissiveness, lax drug policing and left-wing, anarchist politics blended together to create the most sexually adventurous, unconventional party scene in Europe.The city’s historical poverty meant high unemployment and large numbers of people with no reason to wake up early on Monday, fueling the appetite for marathon-length parties and a dislike of closing times. “It’s a fuck-off to the rigid capitalist version of time that is enforced in any other city in the world , They’re truly saying that money is of secondary importance, that it’s the experience that matters.”

This stands in contrast to the big-business barcelona /ibiza/vegas/miami EDM scene and events, which have introduced a new generation of young (or not) people to electronic music, albeit without the sense of danger and edginess that characterized the rave scene of the Nineties.
By contrast, Berlin is scrappy, grimy and chaotic. Cover charges and drinks are still cheap, the venues look run-down and authentic, and you’re less likely to see a celebrity than you are two people fucking at the bar. For people hungry for a taste of underground tekno culture, the lure of this seemingly unspoiled scene can be hard to resist. “There’s the legend of Berghain,” DJ Harvey says. “It’s a cross between The Lord of the Rings and the Stonewall Riots, and then there’s the stories about the guy who turns up with frozen shit and uses it as a dildo.”

the club is located in a former power plant near the Berlin Ostbahnhof railway station. The building is distinguished by its enormous dimensions, and accommodates an 18-meter high ceiling dance floor The interior’s minimalist design is dominated by steel and concrete.
The construction is similar to that of a cathedral of the Middle Ages
There’s something almost spiritual about the atmosphere.
The club contains a “cavernous” main room, as well as a smaller upstairs space called the “Panorama Bar”, which is decorated with large-scale Wolfgang Tillmans photographs
the décor is spare, the walls are mostly empty. the slightly less Dante’s Inferno-esque upstairs space, makes use of cages that formerly housed electrical equipment.
It has the look and feel of an abandoned building.The building is so large and maze-like, you can discover new stairways and rooms even after spending a few days in the club.
first absorbed in the cloakroom ,a huge room where stands a huge mural of Polish artist Piotr Nathan called “Rituals disappearance “.
On top of the grand iron staircase to the dancefloor , i was struck by the onslaught of tekno escaping the huge function speakers as by the beauty of the place: in its 18 meter ceiling , the club of the cathedral-style concrete, in which throng around 3000 clubbers every weekend . Shrouded by darkness , there is a choice between melt into the sweaty body waves rippling on the dancefloor Berghain tekno or join the Panorama Bar, mostly playing tek-house.

Photography is strictly forbidden inside Berghain, and no mirrors or reflecting surfaces can be found anywhere in the club.As many leathermen chaps strutting in the aisles of the club as hipsters chewing imaginary gum , kissing couples in the corners, ravers licking on ice creams , girls sprawled on swings, dready Erasmus students stuck closer to the speaker, and even at certain times, old coked up bankers at the bar.
Everything happening at berghain stays at berghain “. This tacit rule let you flow into the party without fear of tomorrow, the absolute prohibition of taking pictures and no mirrors inside the club is the promise of an enclave cut off from the outside world and its standards. .In the shallows of the building is home to a third club : the Lab.Oratory, a maze of narrow rooms reserved for men. Lab.Oratory, is known as Berlin’s most extreme sex club. The club hosts regular nights called “Yellow Facts,” ” Sewer System” faustparty ….

Anyway…i had a blast. A real routine breaker, an absolute trip challanging my daily normalcy….the only pictures i have are the one of Fran  taken fast  on the 2nd while going to catch my train and plane  after I exit the club where i was since the 31st…very standard almost dull pictures in contrast with  the Lynch-Felliniesque place i was in for 35 hours. but this is why i like them……

worth noting: Sven, the door curator at berghain is a brilliant photographer. You can see his work and maybe a little of berghain…http://marquardtfotografie.com/galerie/

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Sunny side

Today i made it to the sunny side. Namely brevent/ flegere. To shoot pictures with Chad Sayers. That is perfect, i watched Chad ski in all the Jordan Manley short artsy films which i highly recommend.argentina-link is sweet. So it was great for me to meet the guy. Amazing skier all around. Ha makes it pretty hard to miss the shot…here a little banger shot i took…

Chad sayers

Chad sayers


I only climb with hot chicks

I’am glad ski season is over. The relentless mind dithering- i want to go i dont want to go dont go go go no yes no -was driving me crazy. The slow cotemplative pace of climbing, the safety of the rope just feels better for now. i suck at climbing but i like it.

eperon des cosmique. voie rebuffat

Eva Eskilsson, anna caesar

Eva Eskilsson, anna caesar

hand crack

hand crack

Eva Eskilsson

Eva Eskilsson

Eva Eskilsson

Eva Eskilsson

Eva Eskilsson

 anna caesar

anna caesar

Eva Eskilsson

Eva Eskilsson

 anna caesar

anna caesar

Eva Eskilsson

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Michael bird shaffer speed flying on the north face of aiguille du midi

He did 8 runs

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a hang over afternoon of sort in the rond

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Midi opening day with ben briggs and christian cabanilla

It is always good to have someone under 25 years old you can send first in that situation…Ben Briggs was the kid today although …I had to clean the south ridge myself. And you always need a virgin , It was Chris Cabanilla first midi run, so… … Its good and wild out there!

ps: i posted a lot of pictures, not because they are good (it was white out) but so you can assess the amount of snow around…
Alone in the bin with christian cabanilla and ben briggs
bin

send the kids first

ben briggs

and the virgin: Christian cabanilla  looking good.

chris cabanilla

Ben Briggs

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ben briggs

christian cabanilla raping
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christian cabanilla
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christian cabanilla
chris cabanilla

chris cabanilla
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playground

playground


aiguilles rouges

to any astroman-niac climbers , the aiguilles rouges are just a pile of shiat. It is. However , this is also the best leisurely not committing- sunny side -with a view -sport climbing- alpine-cragg- in the world- that i know of. Also, a lot of the routes out there were open by Piola himself and the rock is at times surprisingly good. This round however, for my 2 days off, i had 2 goals: stay away from the crowd, get confident in placing gear without being scared of falling head first on a sharp flake . i chose to go on the tour des crochue and the aiguille de perseverance. 2 easy routes on nice looking pillars, almost un-equipped (a few 1920 charlet pitons here and there) . The route finding was fun and placing gear in grassy crack pretty entertaining. (does it work really, i dont know , i didnt fall) , but best of all, aside from a couple of chamois and marmottes , we didnt see anyone.

tour des crochues

i started with Anna on the tour des crouchues, voie escande de Galbert (1970). (right side straight up)


anna on tour des crochues



anna tour des crochues

and then with luca on perseverance , arete sud integral



luca pandolfi on perseverance


luca on perseverance


luca



a beer at lac blanc refuge





back at work.

I am back at work. night shift .in the past 2 weeks i have been trying to rea-just to those hours and the default world i am stuck with. It does not fit skiing. Especially when the high mountains are really good and screaming my name. Especially when the gerva is good. The gervasutti is the king of all couloir. standing there with a fun angle top to bottom. a skier dream. It is Guarded by a gigantic serac which in the past 5 years i have been in cham kept on breaking and taking all the snow away. This is the first year i see it that way. And i am working. Every time there is a window i am working. I tried to go after work at 7, the condition looked sketchy and i didnt feel like i could deal if things went wrong so i bailed.I watched my friends skiing it a little frustrated. i was off last night so me and ben went back up despite a week of precipitation and over a meter of snow. We got kicked out of the midi station in the storm . this is dysneyland up there now, those days are over, you have to go to hotel cosmique and spent 50 euros.we are not a refuge. the “compagnie du mont blanc” who celebrate alpinists from the past in a gallery doesnt want the present alpinits in its hallways.They kick them out like “mal propre” .how sad, they lost the spirit. The “aiguille du midi” is now an anesthetized ride that takes hordes of chinese and other indian who will stay 10 minute and buy souvenir made in china or india. they will soon forbid skis and ice axes.
. Anyway, we skied the ridge and the south side sled with just a touch. when we got to the slope before the perroux hut, it sled as well with barely a touch. the perroux hut needs some love, the door is broken, there are no blankets left and some trash . it is my mission for this summer. if you have blankets let me know. we climbed the first 100 meters of the triangle du tacul and heard a big deep womp followed with some movement. we bailed smoothly but fast. . no gerva. and tomorrow no partners. and then work. fuck. sweet obsession….

nicklas hansen


nicklas hansen





This is the old perroux hut , it needs some fixing : the door is broken and other stuff. it needs blankets as well. And since “the compagnie du mont blanc” doesnt want any dirty alpinists in the hallway , it could disturb the japenese/chinese/ indians watching a movie on alpinism…we might have to spent some time in there…



variation.

No pictures on a 80cm fresh layer . my lens was foggy on a good shot.