Moody day
A little hike, amazing views and great powder. I was testing the movie part of my camera so I didnt get good action shots. Just one frame whilst filming …i am torn sometime between video and pictures…
La Palud. Italy
La Palud is a 30 min drive from chamonix under a tunnel…And a very different atmosphere.
you start by having coffee and breakfast
then you wait at a massive and stressful line .
and you you go for a run
and one more runs
david rosenbarger, aiguille du midi, chamonix mont blanc
and yes..you go again
you end the day with pizza and beer
bonus
simple.
first day in cham back in the snow
So my fall season has been pretty bad as far as pictures taking goes.My time in the USA was great and it is very unfortunate i couldnt take any pictures… I had issues with a camera sensor, then both camera got lost and shipped at the wrong places and Now, i just realize that the canon 5d mark 3 raw files are not supported by lighroom 3 and you have to get lightroom 4. I hate adobe and canon. But i had a pretty good first day skiing in the forest…that is it
I am still off Camera
however this is a good report from one of our trip on the east side of the sierra nevada, California: click below
out and about
I am going to be out travelling and working for a month or so i wont be taking any pictures . Here are a few galleries made for a few events/ads
Montenver Hotel
My previous post was a close up on the dru with Ueli steck and Jon Griffith climbing. This time the dru is in the background far away with hotel Montenver in the foreground.
Can You See The Climbers: Ueli Steck and Jon Griffith
Ueli Steck and Jon Griffith on a winter ascent of the dru last winter
I cranked up the saturation to see their bright jacket!
Patagonia , USA winter catalogue
This is going to buy me a brand new lens…
Patagonia USA winter catalogue
AIGUILLE DE PURTSCHELLER
I had wonderful dreams for my heat wave-clear sky-no wind- days off. Some glorious summits. 2 of my favorites rope guns are having babies . The other one is in new york (why?) and my favorite climbing partner is in the midst of his mid thirties hormonal outburst. I have to be the rope gun then.that mean not so glorious summit nevertheless awesomeness… My first idea was the high up gorgeous ridge traverse on the aiguille doree. supposedly the best red granit in the mont blanc massif. however my new favorite rope bitch: Anna (that is her name) had to be at work on friday 5 pm at MBC. I chose the neighboring aiguille de purtscheller. Shorter and beautiful , high and far from the crowd. On the book it is pretty easy. the level is nice and sweet. I underestimated the chimney which was tough, long, no pros and required a few maneuvers to get the bags thru it and our bodies. other than that , RAS: beautiful climbing on amazing rock. The walk to and from is nothing less than amazing: Walking thru alpine meadows onto vast moraines, and then walk on those big glaciers (dark holes on the way) . The bivies around the albert 1 er hut are 5 stars….Everything went smoothly aside from a huge piece of rock smashing and ricochet over Anna’s body as she was raping . Luckily her backpack protected her. (panic attack for a few seconds thu) . she scored a few scratches and she made it on time at work. (Anna chose to not bring crampons err…!^$%@…better with). i am impressed at how she took it easy on the whole trip , she is soon to become a great climber…An alpinist.
prossiutto raviolis with greenlandic whale.
sunset
the chardonnet with a shooting star (plane)
the valley
morning light
anna
3 skier’s dream . Ourea obviously created those 3 mountains for skiers
Anna being reborn
can you see the dream in the back ground? so perfect
Anna [/caption]
Anna scrambling down to the rap
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- prossiutto raviolis with greenlandic whale.
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- 5 star bivy
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- sunset
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- sunset
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- the chardonnet with a shooting star (plane)
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- night sky
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- the valley
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- morning light
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- anna
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- 3 skier’s dream . Ourea obviously created those 3 mountains for skiers
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- Anna being reborn can you see the dream in the back ground? so perfect
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- tough birthing
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- Anna
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- Anna posing on the summit. I am impressed at how fast she learns climbing. I am going to be her rope bitch very soon….
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- Anna scrambling down to the rap
aiguilles rouges
to any astroman-niac climbers , the aiguilles rouges are just a pile of shiat. It is. However , this is also the best leisurely not committing- sunny side -with a view -sport climbing- alpine-cragg- in the world- that i know of. Also, a lot of the routes out there were open by Piola himself and the rock is at times surprisingly good. This round however, for my 2 days off, i had 2 goals: stay away from the crowd, get confident in placing gear without being scared of falling head first on a sharp flake . i chose to go on the tour des crochue and the aiguille de perseverance. 2 easy routes on nice looking pillars, almost un-equipped (a few 1920 charlet pitons here and there) . The route finding was fun and placing gear in grassy crack pretty entertaining. (does it work really, i dont know , i didnt fall) , but best of all, aside from a couple of chamois and marmottes , we didnt see anyone.
tour des crochues
i started with Anna on the tour des crouchues, voie escande de Galbert (1970). (right side straight up)
anna on tour des crochues
anna tour des crochues
and then with luca on perseverance , arete sud integral
luca pandolfi on perseverance
luca on perseverance
luca
a beer at lac blanc refuge
aiguille d’entreve
We wanted to climb the west face of the aiguille d’entreve but upon our arrival we realized it was more due North and being pretty cold and cloudy that day we opted for the leisurely traverse. Me and Pete had never being on it before and it was a nice surprise. It is a very esthetic ridge walk, very exposed. The surrounding being the Italian side of the mont blanc massif , it is obviously wild and beautiful …I highly recommend that traverse over the cosmique ridge on busy summer days…
thor husted , pete gaston
le ticket le rond le carre et la lune. aiguille du peigne.
If the words : slabs, traverse, roof are frightening to you. beyond reason: you should go there. It will be fun. 250 meter of slabs. open by Piola. and if it is too easy add some wet-ness into the equation . The rock is so good that if you can give it up, if you can balance your all life on that one little coffee spoon dish or crystal or what ever they call a hold then you will realize it is holding you and start to commit to the next move. and again and again and again …Of course i did not lead anything and i was cussing and puffing. i had fun. My next step is to find a tarantula and lick her ass.
Ben briggs getting ready
ben briggs stepping over the first roof.
what is supposed to be a hold
vision of hell
Thor husted sending it.
Thor husted
thor husted
thor husted.
god
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- ben briggs stepping over the first roof.
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- what is supposed to be a hold
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- vision of hell
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- Thor husted sending it.
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- Thor husted
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- thor husted
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- god
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- thor husted.
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- Ben briggs getting ready
wandering and lurking
That is all my job and the weather are allowing me to do these days. the patterns are as follow: days off= unsettled weather. work days=sunny and warm. I watched 3 seasons of “breaking bad” which I highly recommend. I drunk a few bottles of red wine. got fat , unfit and lazy. I went on nice short walks-climbs and witnessed radical climbing at the world cup, the chamois habitat, clouds and mountains, dog fight. I also took a co-worker on the cosmic ridge….
A nice morning walk before work. Taking Miguel on his first trip outside the cave.
world cup and dog fight
chamois rock and clouds
conte de la folie ordinaire
It is very luxurious to wake up-ride a train up 1000 meters and then walk on a sea of ice surrounded by huge mountains to the base of perfect granit crack and slab climbing. watch the moine crumble (hopefully noone was on the trail or climbing) and then walk back on the sea of ice, ride the train back to town and have a glass of wine at home.
And since some weirdo gave that name to the route we climbed i thought i would throw some related quotes from the Man himself : Bukowski.
“show me a man who lives alone and has a perpetually dirty kitchen, and 5 times out of 9 I’ll show you an exceptional man.” “show me a man who lives alone and has a perpetually clean kitchen, and 8 times out of 9 I’ll show you a man with detestable spiritual qualities.”
― Charles Bukowski, Tales of Ordinary Madness
“the free soul is rare, but you know it when you see it – basically because you feel good, very good, when you are near or with them.”
― Charles Bukowski, Tales of Ordinary Madness
“Forgive me, I guess I am off in the head, but I mean, except for a quickie piece of ass it wouldn’t matter to me if all the people in the world died. Yes, I know it’s not nice. But I’d be as contended as a snail; it was, after all, the people who had made me unhappy.”
― Charles Bukowski, Tales of Ordinary Madness
mer de glace
the aiguille du moine crumbling
midsommar
its summer. i have given up all my big ski projects. the global warming induced heratic weather patterns have transformed my ski dreams into mushy icy hell ski nightmares. I am a climber now. or at least for the next 3 months. A sort of a climber that is. the weak one. scared .
Thor chose one of those 100 Rebuffat finest route. the grutter ridge on the aiguille des pelerins. a fairly easy airy ridge line going to the summit of the aiguille des pelerins. First climbed in 1935 by r. aubert and M .grutter. 1935 means sandbagged and scary. And sandbagged and scary it is. But so magnificient and aerial. With splendid views on the aiguilles de chamonix . A classic!
can you see the climbers
can you see the climbers
Cedric Bernardini 
