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Posts tagged “chamonix

aiguilles rouges

to any astroman-niac climbers , the aiguilles rouges are just a pile of shiat. It is. However , this is also the best leisurely not committing- sunny side -with a view -sport climbing- alpine-cragg- in the world- that i know of. Also, a lot of the routes out there were open by Piola himself and the rock is at times surprisingly good. This round however, for my 2 days off, i had 2 goals: stay away from the crowd, get confident in placing gear without being scared of falling head first on a sharp flake . i chose to go on the tour des crochue and the aiguille de perseverance. 2 easy routes on nice looking pillars, almost un-equipped (a few 1920 charlet pitons here and there) . The route finding was fun and placing gear in grassy crack pretty entertaining. (does it work really, i dont know , i didnt fall) , but best of all, aside from a couple of chamois and marmottes , we didnt see anyone.

tour des crochues

i started with Anna on the tour des crouchues, voie escande de Galbert (1970). (right side straight up)


anna on tour des crochues



anna tour des crochues

and then with luca on perseverance , arete sud integral



luca pandolfi on perseverance


luca on perseverance


luca



a beer at lac blanc refuge





variation.

No pictures on a 80cm fresh layer . my lens was foggy on a good shot.











blue bird










the window

the spring weather patterns are making the weatherman look like a hysterical junky who took a bunch of acid before writing his forecast. However, we found a window big enough for a kaw-aw-wing crowmonkey, a growling goat, a punkviking a few frenchies some yankees ..later followed by more vikings and one south african.





dave rosenbarger










poudreuse with a view


david rosenbarger



mark shelp


mark shelp


john minogue


john minogue


nicklas hansen


nicklas hansen


david rosenbarger


mark shelp


cosmique Marginalities

BEST cosmique EVER.5 stars. My friend Kevin is here for (only) another 3 days. a trip to cham isnt a trip to cham if you dont “DO” the cosmique. right?. whatever. we went there because we like it that way. too. And maybe …It could have been really good. like one of those days. surprise. no. IT was marginal. completely un -even and disfigured dismembered of sort. I and Mark still managed to enjoy it and Kevin did really good on his first marginal cosmique run . I dont remember the last time i had to traverse all the way to mid, looks like it sucks on a snowboard. Did I mention we were the only ones there? In april? blue bird powder day? that is 5 stars. (just a bunch of fuckin pussies)











PLAYGROUND


les jardin de talefre

My friend Kevin who I met riding in Mammoth lakes california is visiting cham for the first time. We havent seen each other since i moved to Chamonix and he moved to Montana (is there mountains there?). So what a better way to introduce him to cham and to what Ive been doing for the past 5 years than to take him in the heart of it all: Les jardins de talefre. Loaded with wiskey, pastis and cigarettes we go on his first ride up the aiguille du midi and on to the refuge du couvercle on a 2 days trip. My 2 rad friends Brendan and Magnus joined us for the first day. We skied the croulante and the col des droites. both in good conditions. The col des droites was perfect corn top to bottom and is a great run, i have being denying that run over the more aggressive runs around for a long time and it ended up being the best skiing i’ve had in that basin. Dumb me. Despite a crampon coming off his soft snowboard boots , kevin did great and came back in one piece. We would have stayed another week there, but we ran out of booze, cigarettes and snus…


































B Line -lunch at elevation and a hot chick

our plan was the summit. but, considering the funky snow we were walking on we opted for the more direct B-line. It was a very esthetic ski and a great enjoyable descent despite that snow which i cant really describe. just funky, hard to read kind of snow. but edgeable. all good. and then the hot chick with a burger.








and here are pictures from my friend philipe Ebert taken another day but it gives a good sens of scale on the first lower section with skiers on it



shadow light











rando race-powder rollers-lunch at C9















aiguille rouge flim flam-dead bouctin-a fake key hole-beer













the Rond ..a little sketchy

There is something to say about being sea side and then waking up at the top of the rond. the rond and the cosmique were not so friendly today. . slabs and hidden ice and wind crust…we triggered about 4 slabs (some bigs) skiing down and i went on 2 front flips releasing my 2 skis each time with that crusty powder.in between those, it was fun. deep and face shot . the cosmique apparently had some big slabs as well. we all made it down. safe. good times. then we did another round down the valley blanche…just because.


















Rando day

Take a young rando racer, 1 radical ski alpinist and me. shake. And you get 1600 M vertical ascent, 3000M descent. 3 entracked couloirs with cold snow exposed and fairly steep…3 new lines for me. all between 9 am and 2.30 PM. fun day! we should have carried on to Buet but… why?  and  the elevation apres ski burger and beer were singing my name  pretty loudly…
























arete sud aiguille du Genepi

Every year at around spring which came a little too early this year , chamonix has my favorite kind of rock climbing: ski- in ski -out alpine rock climbing . you take a lift , ski 1000 meters -skin one hour-and you are at the base of beautiful south facing perfect alpine red granit towers. from 200M to 6ooM, from classic 5c to cutting edge 7c , splitters-face-you name it…you climb your route in the most beautiful alpine scenery , all day in the sun, rap , get back on your skis and glide down 2000 meters of beautiul rollers down the glacier to your car. that way you are avoiding the long heinous approach donkeying your gear around and the long descent. Only the best. just pleasure..the epitome of “joie de vivre”. Today we chose to go in the argentiere basin to climb the genepi south ridge. A perfect choice to start the season.

refuge d argentiere


we climbed the right tower south ridge


thor



this is my foot


view


those climbs looked pretty hard


chillin out


climbing


climbing


climbing


rapping


Chardonnet. another “but” the 3rd for that line.

we wanted to ski the south face of the chardonnet. When we got to the base of it , it was very hot . too hot. the line is pretty exposed to rock fall and the couloir itself leads to a cliff band if you dont turn hard left…i thought it was sort of Ok but my partners dusan and Niklas were not so keen and went on a full strike: ass in the snow skis spread up in the sky like i had lost all my power. so French of them… so we bailed and skied 2000 meters of rollers in good corn conditions. not so bad. 
Image


Gabbarou albioni

It was all going great until a blonde smoked us and a block of ice smashed my wrist. we backed off 2 third of the way. Not a good option to have a lazy late start on that one. people start from the hut and by the time you get there they are throwing missile at you from the rocky top……deadly.

funny how everything seems flat and small





The rond felt very steep today.

got scared for a minute…







rest Day

We were enjoying a nice rest day drinking coffee under the sun at a chamonix terrace when at 2.30 greg called Olli saying he had just landed in town and would like to take a midi run. by 3.30 we were at the top of the cosmique ready to go for a very good sunset powder run…

Greg and Olli at the rap


ryan and greg


greg and ryan


ryan


ryan







The couloir Angelique. A glorious traverse.

Since I have skied the capucin couloir directly facing the angelique i wanted to ski it. The Angelique is very hard to get in good condition due to its aspect (south) and shape (narrow couloir). But this year , all the South faces are filled in and i thought i would give it a try with my friends Ryan Boyer , Brett Lotz visiting from California and Ross Hewitt a scottish chamonix local. WE decided to go first bin and to climb the NNE of les courtes and traverse to the Angelique on the other side. I didnt think much of that part since i have climbed and skied that face making big turns numerous times. I was wrong, it was definitely an alpine climb. The strong N wind have ripped the face of its snow and the face was almost entirely ice. Sometimes just a thin layers of not supportive snow would hide the ice which made it harder. The top 3 rd part was all dinner plate breakable which if you are not used to it is pretty scary. to be faster we all roped up on that part to Ryan who was just flying up it. Actually Ryan and Brett, the 2 californians with heavy alpine ski set up were much faster than the 2 locals. ouch! take that in your face. Oh well, i have a 3 kg cameras. that is my lame excuse. The skiing was “marginal”. the couloir is narrow with 2 banks facing west and south. each banks have different kind of snow , old hollow powder sometime , hard crust , icy bumps , rock steps and so on. and it is all pretty steep. Lower down as the angle soften, the snow was better, smooth powder or spring snow which allows us to make nice big turns. All of this made it an amazing ski-alpinism outing, very technical in an amazing setting, traversing from one basin to the other. The couloir is amazingly beautiful and is all worth it good or bad snow. Call me crazy but this is the kind of skiing I like. We were rewarded by a beautiful sunset skiing in smooth powder and corn down the talefre basin and the mer de glace and then the james bond to a fresh beer at the elevation. good day.

That is the NNE of les courtes we climbed up. Here it looks like a nice freeride run . it is. but today was all ice


that is the couloir angelique on the other side


hiking up the argentiere basin


brett at the beshrund. not a easy one


at the shrung


brett and ryan going fast


ross hewitt



to third. the ice was breakable and scary. we roped up


tyan leading


at the col


ryan boyer at col


brett lotz and ross hewitt at col


rapping



ryan boyer on alpine ski.



me trying to get a picture with lens foggy and not so stable



Brett Lotz


brett lotz


brett lotz




Italy expresso powder pizza

Need I say more?

brett


brett ryan and expresso


ryan getting it


brett


powder turn


tele turn


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pizza wine and gnocci


brett


in the cosmique

First day in cham for my cali friends visiting…brevent cold snow/spring snow and some crap. expresso.farmers market pizza and chicken and of course a cosmique which was…surprisingly good…not like knee deep good but silky smooth good. cosmique is always Fun. i think we skied about 27 000 feet…not bad.

ryan got the most face shots

Ryan Boyer Hucking the ice/rock bulge.

ben briggs, ryan boyer , brett lotz

ryan boyer, brett lotz

Ryan stylin it

ryan boyer





brett ryan rapping

ben briggs

brett lotz ryan boyer

ben briggs


January 2012 was very powdery

luca pandolfi

luca pandolfi

luca pandolfi

luca pandolfi

luca pandolfi

luca pandolfi

luca pandolfi

tom grant

tom grant

tom grant

tom grant

Federico Ghione.

frederico ghione

luca rossi

tom grant

Federico Ghione.

luca pandolfi

luca pandolfi

luca pandolfi

luca pandolfi

luca pandolfi

luca pandolfi

luca pandolfi

luca pandolfi

luca pandolfi

luca pandolfi

luca pandolfi

luca pandolfi

luca pandolfi

luca pandolfi

tom grant

Luca Pandolfi

ross Hewitt

sami haapasalmi

sami haapasalmi

sami haapasalmi

ross Hewitt


the couloir vallancant

The vallancant is one of those runs that used to be “off the guide book trail” but is now very popular and hard to get first track. Which is understandable because it is truly an amazing descent with a very short hike.  Now, there are plenty of variation which are rarely skied  in the same zone so if you really need to be the first that day it should be easy. I just wanted a good ski out of the cold and wind and in the sun. too fuckin cold these days. the wind was depositing massive amount of moisture snow all around and i was a little worried about that run. I proved right , a big slab released half way down the couloir and went down to the glacier bed . It happened right before us and probably just as the 2 skiers before us exited the couloir,  hence their fresh tracks on the apron. the skiing was marginal between slabby hard chalk and soft snow…we met a few chamois and were out of there on time for apres ski…